HRJ’s GUIDE TO UNUSUAL CUTS OF GEMSTONE

In the world of gemstones, the cut plays a pivotal role in defining a stone’s aesthetic appeal and value.

While classic cuts like round and oval will always remain popular, several more unusual cuts of gemstone that I love to use in my work offer a distinctive flair that sets them apart. Among these, the Asscher cut, Emerald cut, Carré cut, Cushion cut, and Baguette cut stand out for their unique characteristics.

In this article I show how I incorporate these more unconventional cuts into my designs, creating pieces that I hope to both captivate and inspire. Here I will explore each of these gemstone cuts and how I bring them to life in my work.

THE ASSCHER CUT

The Asscher cut is a square-shaped cut that features a series of what are referred to as step facets, with a flat table (or top) to create a captivating hall of mirrors effect that enhances the gemstone’s brilliance. Developed in the early 20th century by Joseph Asscher, for me, this cut is often associated with vintage elegance. While I often get requests for the Asscher cut for bespoke rings, and love to utilise this style of stone in my collections, and I am often presented Asscher cut stones in my jewellery remodelling projects. By selecting vibrant gemstones that showcase their clarity and depth and setting them in contemporary ring designs, it allows this unique style of stone to shine, appealing to my clients who appreciate both nostalgia and modern aesthetics. Working with the Asscher cut evokes sophistication, making these particular gems ideal not only for engagement rings, but for special occasions and cherished heirlooms.

My ANTONIA ring is a perfect example of a classic HRJ design using an Asscher cut stone. Using a 2.3ct Asscher cut diamond from Antonia’s original engagement ring I was able to use the clean lines of the gemstone to create a bold statement ring that embodied the wearers unique style whilst incorporating a cherished heirloom.

The MACARENA also used a stunning Asscher cut diamond as a central feature of a bold and unique engagement ring set with custom cut diamonds and sapphires. 

EMERALD CUT

The Emerald cut is another unique shape of gemstone that stands out due to its rectangular dimensions and step-cut facets. Originally designed for emeralds, but now very popular for diamonds, and particularly diamond engagement rings, this cut allows for a larger surface area across the top of the stone, giving it a striking appearance. Due its shape, any flaws in stones are less easily hidden so in the case of diamonds, they generally require a greater clarity and colour, but I also love using the emerald cut to really showcase the natural beauty of any gemstone and create a design that highlights its features and attributes, making it an ideal cut of stone for clients who prefer understated and minimal design elegance. For me, by incorporating emerald-cut stones into my jewellery, such as the JESSIE and POPPY rings, I can create pieces that are not only visually stunning, but also allow the wearer to appreciate the gemstone’s true character.

 CARRÉ CUT

The Carré cut, whilst often seen as a vintage cut of stone with an art deco feel in fact for me, offers a geometric and modern approach to gemstone cutting. Although a square shape, similar to the Asscher cut, the Carré features much cleaner lines and symmetry without rounded corners, making it an excellent choice for contemporary designs such as the SASHA. I have also been incorporating the Carré cut into my engagement and celebration rings, using it to create bold statement pieces that capture attention. By showcasing the structured appearance of the Carré in the arches of my ring designs against the central stones such as the ANNA ring, I allow for an interplay between the central stones and the setting which align perfectly with the HRJ aesthetic – creating a piece that I aim to be both striking and sophisticated. For clients I work with, these designs often bridge the gap between classic and modern styles, appealing to a variety of customers personal tastes.

The SASHA and ANNA rings highlight beautifully

CUSHION CUT

The cushion cut, characterised by its soft, rounded corners and larger facets, offers a romantic and vintage look to my ring designs. This beautiful cut combines the classic elements of a square cut with the softness of an oval, resulting in a beautiful and versatile gemstone shape. Whenever I use cushion-cut stones in my designs, I simply love their unique facets to enhance brilliance and sparkle, and by incorporating cushion cuts into my rings, I can create pieces that exude warmth and elegance, appealing to those who appreciate a timeless aesthetic.

My cushion-cut designs such as the TESSA Ring often lend themselves well to vintage-inspired settings and are often seen in my jewellery remodelling projects, creating a perfect blend of tradition and modernity, and in designs such as the LUCY ring, their versatility allows me to design a ring that has a timeless feel with a modern look.

BAGUETTE CUT

The baguette cut is a narrow, rectangular cut that I frequently use as accent stone in my jewellery but can also stand alone in a piece. I often incorporate baguette-cut gemstones into my creations, using their elongated shape to add elegance and dimension. This cut features long step facets that offer a refined look, enhancing the overall design of my bespoke ring designs. The use of graduating baguette-cut stones often appears in the shoulders and arches of my pieces, showcasing the ability to blend contemporary techniques with classic styles. In the case of the NINA ring, by integrating custom cut baguette stones which matched the design perfectly, I could add a distinct flair to an heirloom stone. I also love to use baguette cut diamonds as the central gems as seen in my SOPHIE ring, and as seen throughout my collections, the use of custom cut baguettes make each piece a testament to my own, and my client’s artistic vision.

In conclusion, the use of unusual gemstone cuts—Asscher, Emerald, Carré, Cushion, and Baguette, allows me to realise my design aesthetic and create showstopping jewellery. Each cut brings its own personality and charm, enabling me to craft bespoke jewellery that resonates with a wide range of tastes and styles. By embracing these unconventional shapes, I can create pieces that tell a story, and can ‘speak without shouting.’ So as you consider your next gemstone purchase, take inspiration from these stunning stones and explore the beauty of unusual cuts, which can elevate your jewellery to true works of art.

Would you like to browse a selection of my bespoke engagement ring designs?