CUSTOM CUT GEMSTONES AND BESPOKE DESIGN

Here at HRJ we love to talk about our use of custom cut gems but what does it mean, and why and how do we use them? In this article, I will explore where this often unique and technical skill features in my bespoke jewellery design, and the differences between custom cut and machine cut gemstones which are so often preferred in my bespoke process.

As a jewellery designer, when it comes to selecting the perfect gemstones for a bespoke ring, the choice between custom cut gemstones and machine cut stones can significantly impact both the aesthetic and emotional value of the piece. The use of custom cut gemstones, which are hand cut and crafted by skilled artisans, offer a unique charm and design ability that machine cut stones simply cannot always replicate.

SO WHAT IS THE ART OF CUSTOM CUTTING GEMSTONES?

Custom cut gemstones are those that are hand cut and meticulously shaped by skilled craftspeople know as lapidarists. By analysing the stone’s natural characteristics, such as colour, clarity, and inclusions, to determine the best way to cut it, they can expertly maximise its brilliance and beauty and allow it to be used in even the most intricate of my designs.

Sometimes this might be to change the shape of a central stone to fit a certain design I have created with my client, or allow me to utilise unique design features tailored to the individual’s preferences.

This approach, which requires the highest level of expertise and knowledge, ensures that each gemstone is created not only with the design in mind, but also the bearer of the jewellery itself, which means together we can create a unique, one of a kind piece of jewellery.

In contrast, machine cut stones that are produced using standardised methods, prioritise efficiency and uniformity. While these stones can exhibit impressive clarity and shine, for me they often lack the distinctiveness and diversity found in the ability to custom cut. You see, machine cutting typically follows predetermined shapes and sizes, which results in gemstones that appear similar to one another, and although this uniformity is fabulous in many ways, it can also mean they won’t always work in truly hand-made pieces such as bespoke engagement rings. The LUCY ring pictured, needed meticulous planning and execution to create the unbroken blanket of diamonds effect you can see, and would not have been possible to create without custom cutting, the JUANI ring was also only possible to create with the use of custom cut diamonds.

EMOTIONAL VALUE AND PERSONALISATION

One of the most compelling reasons that makes me choose custom cut gemstones for rings is the emotional connection they foster. When clients collaborate with me to design a piece, they often share their stories, preferences, and inspirations. This collaborative process results in a ring that not only embodies the wearer’s personal style but also carries a narrative that machine cut stones simply cannot always provide.

In my case, the use of a custom cut gemstone might allow a piece of jewellery to incorporate specific design elements that hold personal significance, such as a beloved family heirloom style or a favourite colour This level of personalisation transforms the ring into a meaningful symbol of love, commitment, or achievement, making it truly special, and adds an extra touch that is so essential in bespoke jewellery. This is demonstrated beautifully in the Sapphire Power ring, which was an heirloom remodelling project I created with my client that incorporated custom cut stones, adding emotive design details and features on the sides and arches of the ring and the ELLA ring which was made with carefully cut green sapphires tailored to the ring.

QUALITY AND CRAFTSMANSHIP

It also goes without saying that as a high-end jewellery designer, another advantage of custom cut gemstones is the superior quality that often accompanies this elevated level of artisanal craftsmanship. My experienced team of gem cutters take the time to ensure that the gemstone’s proportions and facets are meticulously crafted for each piece of jewellery, leading to enhanced light performance and brilliance. This attention to detail and deep knowledge and understanding of gems and their properties, can result in a stone that works significantly better than a machine cut counterpart, and as custom cutting allows for the integration of unique design features to enhance the overall aesthetic of the piece, I can create truly one of a kind engagement rings and jewellery with stunning visual effect.

THE BESPOKE EXPERIENCE

In summary, the use of custom cut gemstones is an integral part of my client’s bespoke jewellery experience and indeed the HRJ experience overall. It allows clients to engage in a creative process that culminates in a piece that is not only a reflection of their tastes but also a celebration of their individuality. The bespoke process empowers clients to express their personality through their jewellery, ensuring that each piece is as unique as the wearer.

I am finding that more and more, custom cutting gemstones can offer a distinct advantage in the realm of bespoke jewellery and am proud to be able to offer this level of work to my clients. Their unique craftsmanship, emotional value, and enhanced quality make them the preferable choice for those seeking to create a meaningful and personalised piece. When it comes to rings that convey love, commitment, or personal milestones, opting for custom cut stones ensures that the final creation is as extraordinary as the story it tells.

As you can see, being able to use custom cut gemstones in my designs I can celebrate British jewellery design and craftsmanship at its absolute finest and am proud to work with some of the best lapidarists and stone setters in the UK to make sure all my clients are able to create a one off piece of jewellery created entirely for them. 

Would you like to browse a selection of my bespoke engagement ring designs?